What Is Kumihimo? Learn the Japanese Art of Braided Cords 

Kumihimo is a braiding technique with origins in Asia. The craft spread from China to Japan, where it gained tremendous popularity during the time of the samurai. Cords were braided to join plates of armor and to wrap sword hilts for a better grip. As kumihimo use grew, colors and symbols for long life were incorporated into the braids.

During the Momoyama period (1573–1615,) kumihimo became a part of the traditional kimono pieces. An obijime is a braided cord that ties over the obi to hold the sash in place and is still worn today with formal dress. As the samurai influence in Japan declined and the country turned to Western-style dress during the Meiji period (1868–1912), the prevalence of kumihimo decreased drastically. Braiding machines also affected the business of braidmakers: 95% of kumihimo braids are now made by machine versus traditional techniques.

Front of samurai armor from the Kii Tokugawa family, early seventeeth century Back of the suit of armor showing elaborate knotting of cord. The Kii branch of the Tokugawa family ruled Japan for about 250 years.

Samurai armor showing kumihimo, on display at the Minneapolis Institute of Art. Photos by Lynn Rognsvoog

Types of Equipment: Traditional Tools for Kumihimo

The three most common types of looms, or stands, for kumihimo braiding are the ayatakedai, takadai, and marudai. The ayatakedai (bamboo stand) is used for making flat braids and is similar in structure to bands woven on an inkle loom. These bands have separate warp and weft threads. The takadai (high stand) is also used for flat braids and more intricate patterns. Its methods differ from the ayatakedai in that the warp threads also act as the weft, passing through each other at an angle. This makes for a very strong braid. The marudai or round stand can make square, flat, or round braids.

Traditionally, kumihimo is worked on a marudai stand. The mirror of the marudai, or top, is where the threads braid together. Weighted tamas hold the threads for braiding. The finished cord has a counterweight attached to balance the tamas and is shifted along the cords as it grows. Finished 16-strand spiral braid destined to become curtain ties.

Traditional elements of kumihimo. Photos by Katrina King

How is it done? Step-by-Step from Thread to Braid

With the marudai stand, threads are wound onto weighted tamas or bobbins and laid out on the kagami or mirror, and a counterweight is added to the threads through the center. Threads are then passed back and forth over the mirror in the proper sequence to create the braid.

Make your own cords with a foam disk. Photo by Matt Graves

Today, crafters can get started with kumihimo in a much easier way. With a bit of thread and a foam disk, it is easy to make bracelets, necklaces, and curtain ties. Anything that you could use a cord for is possible with this craft.

Watch and Learn

In this free video, Piecework's project editor Angela K. Schneider walks you through creating a simple braid. LTM All Acces subscribers can check out this free pattern in the Spin Off Library!